Sicilian pasta with cauliflower, pine nuts and raisins, sprinkled with toasted breadcrumbs, red and white versions
Put the cauliflower stem-side down in the pot of water, cover and bring back to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until you can easily insert a fork into the stem of the cauliflower. Check the cauliflower after 16 minutes or so. It typically takes 18-20 minutes, or more for a larger cauliflower.
Cooking the cauliflower this way helps to avoid overcooking. If the pot is just a little too short but the cauliflower fits with the lid on it’s fine. If the pot is much too short you can cut the cauliflower into not-too-small florets but watch the cauliflower carefully to avoid overcooking. Cut florets will cook quickly, around 5-6 minutes, and will overcook easily.
Take the cauliflower out with a fork or slotted spoon and rest on a dinner plate to drain and cool. Reserve the cooking water.
When the cauliflower is cool enough to handle, break it with your hands or cut it into florets that are about the size of an unshelled almond. When you’re cooking the sauce later you want the cauliflower to break into small pieces but not mash. Cut away any fibrous parts of the stem, slice it and add it to the florets. Use the tender leaves as well.
While the cauliflower is cooling, pour the breadcrumbs into a frying pan. This is the same pan where you will eventually make the sauce. If you want to toss the pasta in the pan later, it should be at least 12”/30cm. Add a pinch of salt and a large pinch sugar (maybe a half teaspoon, if desired), and two or three tablespoons of olive oil, stirring with a fork until the mixture is grainy. Add more oil if needed – the mixture should resemble wet beach sand.
Wipe out the pan you toasted the breadcrumbs in and heat two or three tablespoons of oil in it over medium heat, enough to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion becomes translucent. It should not brown. If it seems the onion is cooking too fast, lower the heat and/or add a spoonful of water.
Add the cauliflower to the pan and stir vigorously, breaking up the cauliflower into small pieces but not liquefying it completely.
Sprinkle with the remaining breadcrumbs and drizzle over some additional oil "a crudo" (uncooked), if desired. Serve immediately.
Note the dish wants for nothing when made vegan without the anchovies, except perhaps a bit of salt. I have never tried it but I would imagine it would benefit from some nutritional yeast.